Until now, fruit acids were reserved for aesthetic procedures performed in beauty salons and doctors’ offices. The good news is that there is no better way to remove skin blemishes.
In the language of Molière, “to exfoliate” means “to remove by thin blades the surface of something”; in Shakespeare’s language, “to peel off” translates into “to peel off”. Placed in a cosmetic register, these two definitions better clarify the principle of peeling, namely to remove the superficial layer of the skin. The goal? To create a brand new skin surface by accelerating cell renewal. How does it work? Thanks to fruit acids – alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), beta-hydroxy acids (BHA), poly-hydroxy acids (PHA) – which, through a chemical reaction, cause the epidermis, the most superficial layer of the skin, to peel. The benefits? A refined and uniform skin texture, oxygenated tissues, tightened pores, faded wrinkles, fine lines, spots, dark circles and other acne marks. In short, the peel rids the face of all the imperfections that prevent it from glowing.
Which peel should I choose?
While lotions and serums can be integrated into beauty routines – preferably in the evening between make-up removal and night care – this is not the case for creams and masks, which should be used twice a week as a one-month treatment. As for the active ingredients, the choice depends on your needs. For a new skin, we rely on AHAs such as glycolic, lactic or malic acid. BHAs, the best known of which is salicylic acid, cleanse deeply, while PHAs are moisturizing and antioxidant.
Each skin has its own dosage
Once the active ingredient has been chosen, it remains to adapt the concentration rate according to the nature of the skin. Thus, normal skin types only need a low-dose care product (4 to 8%) that will illuminate the complexion without damaging the skin barrier. Because oily skin with a tendency to acne requires regulation of sebum production, the concentration of acid (glycolic acid, for example) can go up to 10%. Finally, sensitive skin will only tolerate products, preferably PHA-based, with a maximum dosage of 5%, to be used twice a week at most.
Some precautions
Homemade peels do not damage a healthy epidermis. However, there are some contraindications: they can weaken freshly depilated or exfoliated skin, skin that has been sunburned or has small wounds. It is also necessary to respect the frequency of use and the application time. All precautions being good to take, it is better to do a skin test before the first application to test its tolerance.
By Véronique Aïache
Published on 16/12/2022